Jerkin + Contest

A place for pics and tutorials on making Soft Kit (clothing and accessories like buckles and cloak pins).

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Greg
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Jerkin + Contest

Post by Greg »

Been trucking along through projects at a frightening pace lately, and this one reached a point of 'completion' today.

This project began with two unique smoked braintanned deer hides from Udwin. They are absolutely lovely, and as a material for this purpose I believe, really, are second to none.

The purpose in making a jerkin was to craft a breathable but warm top layer that stayed consistent with the descriptions of Aragorn and Halbarad, while still evoking enough of the common-folk mental image of a ranger to stay culturally relevant. I haven't had a jerkin that fit in several years after I grew out of my last one, which I gave to Elegost since it looked like it would fit his frame. This one allows for that extra broadening in the chest/across the shoulders, but follows a similar aesthetic as the original, with a few major changes.

For starters...it opens in the front. The last one laced up the sides. Looked neat-o, but was an absolute royal pain to put on/take off...so it stayed on for most of the time I was in the field. Not practical for drying out under layers and other important camp tasks.
Next, material selection. Braintan breathes (thank heavens), stretches (thank goodness), and is a fantastic insulating layer despite how thin it appears to be.
Lastly, I lined it. I tried a million times to justify the linen lining I used, and honestly didn't come across any concrete reasons for having the lining in there...but that's a major difference that separates this from a piece of costume. I've seen hundreds of leather "jerkins" online and at Faires, and there was nothing that separated any of them from the "costume piece" description...even those that cost a small fortune. Having that linen lining in there, to me, will speak volumes about what we do at first glance, rather than this simply being another leather vest.

Nothing on God's green earth compares to newspaper for making patterns.
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It was assembled mostly with a backstitch, though the shoulder and side seams were laid flat and felled with a running stitch. No pre-punched holes; I used a rather stout and sharp yarn darning needle and a palm thimble. The lining is enclosed in hide on all edges.
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This spring, it's going to go for a second try in a dyebath...first one wasn't strong enough. I'm aiming for about halfway between where it is now and the color of my surcote, so not insanely dark, but definitely further along than at present. I wish I'd had the patience to wait until spring to do the whole project, because I'd prefer that the linen stay its natural color (I like the contrast), but I can't have everything.
Sorry about the quality in-process pics vs. the crummy completed photos. SLR camera battery died...mid-take...this evening.

So, all of this being said...there's a catch. Or, rather, there isn't.

After years, really, of debating how I wanted to close this thing at the front, I settled on an idea. Today, I ditched it. That's where you come in.

I'm putting no time limit on this...whoever submits an idea for a closure system on the front of this jerkin that influences my final decision the most, either whole or in part, I will stitch up a 100% wool lasdhir or tri-paneled bag, your choice, and send it to your door.

Rules:
1) No more than one suggestion per post.
2) No more than three suggestions per person.
3) No posting submissions one after another; someone else has to post a suggestion between your submissions, so no flooding the thread. If no one else posts anything for a bit, you have to wait.

What I'm after: Something to keep it snugly closed which doesn't defy the technology level, is within my skill level to craft, and either fits or at the least doesn't contradict any reasonably relevant Tolkien references.

One, two, ready, go.
Now the sword shall come from under the cloak.
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Harper
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Re: Jerkin + Contest

Post by Harper »

Uhmm, the title of this thread doesn't sound so good...
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Manveruon
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Re: Jerkin + Contest

Post by Manveruon »

Brilliant! It turned out absolutely beautiful! So glad to see it come to completion! What's hilarious is that I've been meaning to post my own jerkin update, but the thing that has been stopping me is that I don't have the front closure finished, haha. My problem, however, is that I simply need to find someone who supplies the proper round-braided bolo style leather laces, because I've tried braiding them myself about a hundred times now and I CANNOT get it to look right.

Anyway, I have to say, as far as closure goes, I think you basically can't beat the "Aragorn method." That is, several ties running down both sides of the vest-front that are simply knotted in the middle to hold it snug (I favor a simple square knot). I think this method has several advantages. First of all, lacing the front of a garment is a major pain and takes FOR-EV-ER to fasten up or take off. Secondly, it doesn't have the bulk of other fasteners, such as buttons or toggles. Thirdly, it is quite secure. Fourthly, it is somewhat adjustable (for those rare times on the trail when you perhaps ate a few too many cakes of waybread). And finally (and this is a totally subjective opinion), I feel like it really looks authentic. Lacing can look kind of "ren-faire-ish" and toggles, buttons, etc. can look a little too manufactured. Ties just have a more primitive and practical look (particularly if you are more talented than me and can hand-braid them).

So there you go! That's my two cents.
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Elleth
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Re: Jerkin + Contest

Post by Elleth »

Oh nice! That came out great!
I really love the lining- it does just make it real, as you say. I also expect it will help it keep its shape over the years: I've found linen inside of thin leather keeps things from stretching quite well. I also doubt you'll have much trouble with your next dyebath - linen's famous for not wanting to take dye. :)


I love the thought of ties - they look great - but I'm sooo tired of trying to untie things with cold crampy fingers.
And buttons just turn it into a WWI British jerkin.

My first thought then would be a more rustic version of the d-ring and clasp you see on boromir's long leather overgarment -
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... excepting:
A. Smaller overall
B. No "shield" on the rings - just the d-ring part
C. fastened with a leather tie with a toggle at each end, or a little flat iron hook.


At least, that's what I was thinking of doing with my cloak closure (inspired by WETA faramir) until quite recently. :)
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Odigan
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Re: Jerkin + Contest

Post by Odigan »

Outstanding!

My vote is for toggle closures. Antler tips would be great, carved wood of your choice, or rolled leather (I use these often), etc. More easily manipulated and repaired than buttons, especially with gloves on.

A fully fabric/rope/cord frog is an option but may veer too far towards a band uniform depending on execution.
Last edited by Odigan on Fri Feb 10, 2017 7:37 am, edited 2 times in total.
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Manveruon
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Re: Jerkin + Contest

Post by Manveruon »

Hah! Elleth - on a completely unrelated topic - I literally did not notice until this exact moment, but even Boromir's clasps are made of those EXACT SAME BUCKLES. How did I never notice that before???

Also, I dig the clasp idea. Another cool example of that is Flynn Rider's doublet/jerkin/thing.
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Elleth
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Re: Jerkin + Contest

Post by Elleth »

Manveruon wrote:Hah! Elleth - on a completely unrelated topic - I literally did not notice until this exact moment, but even Boromir's clasps are made of those EXACT SAME BUCKLES. How did I never notice that before???
I know, right? I was in the exact same boat. If it wasn't for the unused space for the tongue, I'd swear that overcoat/jerkin/whatever is what they were originally made for, Boromir being a main charterer and all, and that being a part of his signature costume. What a mystery... wish we had someone from WETA to clear up the original use. :)

ANYHOW..
A fully fabric/rope/cord frog is an option but may veer too far towards a band uniform depending on execution.
I do like that idea - here's an arrangement WETA used for one of the dwarf costumes in The Hobbit -
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Normally I don't like buttons in a human ME context. I know in the High Middle Ages people went ga-ga for them, but they still feel a little too early-modern to me for ME. Paired like this with a cord frog though, it works well.

I think Manv is on to something about things lying flat and not poking you when there's a carriage strap across your chest or you're creeping along the earth. I also get wanting to stick with organics from a stylistic / realistic wealth level standpoint, and - perhaps most importantly for a Ranger - you don't want any kind of metal clacking on itself if possible.

This is another Dwarven closure - just a braided leather toggle:
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I'm tentatively thinking that aforementioned d-ring setup would work best with a leather toggle somewhat in this direction, though of course less square and weta-dwarfy.
The other nice thing about this setup is that if you change your mind and want to dress it up with cord points or metal plaques a la Boromir, the same base hardware will work in every instance.

I think the key with using metal in this context is keeping the hardware small and dull - maybe even affixing them to the inside, so they're mostly out of sight when worn.
I was exploring the same base idea with d-rings of bone or antler (decided they were too fragile) or leather (decided it was too chunky) and reluctantly settled on dull bronze. But ... I dunno.


(edited for grammar.)
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Elwindil
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Re: Jerkin + Contest

Post by Elwindil »

how about some hand forged buckles in steel, darkened to be rust resistant? I've seen things like that floating around the net before, and I'm sure that they can be made or purchased from perhaps even one of our resident smiths?
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Re: Jerkin + Contest

Post by Brownno »

I think since it was leather you could do a deer antler button. that way it would match the style a bit.
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this style you could use more of the antler continuing down the antler
this style you could use more of the antler continuing down the antler
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this style would look the best and you would have it more available
this style would look the best and you would have it more available
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Re: Jerkin + Contest

Post by Greg »

Alright, I've finally gotten around to knocking this out after knocking ideas around for far-too-long. My completely unbiased decision has fallen to Odigan, in the form of some very low-profile leather toggles I'm in the middle of stitching up. I've discussed via texting with Odigan the pouch he has chosen, and will get started on it shortly. You know...right after this mess is finished.

So here's where we're at. I made up seven of these ridiculously small toggles consisting of rolled leather on one end and a round "blip" on the other end. The rolled toggle end has a small piece of metal wire running through each to keep it stiff and prevent buckling/folding over time. The "blip" gave me a wider surface than the strap itself to stitch down, since this is the load-bearing end.
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I then made up fourteen of these "skirts" for the toggles, one for each side of the jerkin opening.
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This half, which conceal the toggle's attachment to the jerkin itself, have holes punched through their center, and were slid onto the toggles before the toggle "blip" was stitched down (for those who want to know how bad my fingers hurt...that's my thumb for size reference.) This is definitely a small-detail project.
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After folding them around the jerkin hem, the skirts were stitched down and, if I may say so, are rockin'.
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More to come when I finish these and the other side...an update which has to wait until my fabric store opens. I got three of them done before bending the crap out of my last heavier sharp needle. :evil:
Now the sword shall come from under the cloak.
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Re: Jerkin + Contest

Post by Elleth »

That looks great! I bet you can't wait to finally get the thing off your workbench and into the woods. :)

(right there with you on the sore fingers! )
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Re: Jerkin + Contest

Post by Greg »

Elleth wrote: I bet you can't wait to finally get the thing off your workbench and into the woods. :)
This right here.
Now the sword shall come from under the cloak.
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Re: Jerkin + Contest

Post by Kortoso »

Very fine work all in all.
It truly shines.
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Re: Jerkin + Contest

Post by Greg »

I would hope not!

*chuckle*

Thanks, man! Can't wait to give her a dunk later this week. Dye's been sitting for a few days after boiling...should be MUCH stronger this time around.
Now the sword shall come from under the cloak.
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Re: Jerkin + Contest

Post by Laothain »

Very cool
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