Bocksten 'Ranger' Cloak - From EotW Winter 16-17

A place for pics and tutorials on making Soft Kit (clothing and accessories like buckles and cloak pins).

Moderators: caedmon, Greg

User avatar
Greg
Urush bithî 'nKi ya-nam bawâb
Posts: 4496
Joined: Tue Dec 02, 2008 8:50 pm
Location: Eriador; Central Indiana

Bocksten 'Ranger' Cloak - From EotW Winter 16-17

Post by Greg »

Well, I've gotten around to finishing the cloak, and I'm very pleased. The fabric, as I mentioned in the thread on my article (see: Middle Earth Reenactment Society Sub-Forum), arrived a few days late, but certainly not a dollar short. It matches the numerous descriptions of DARK grey that are found throughout the text, and fits the bill for a 3-4 season cloak. It's actually lighter than I anticipated (though not too thin as a fabric.) I honestly feel like the weight difference I'm feeling between this cloak, which is barely thinner as a material [but has darned near twice the square footage of my last cloak] can be chalked up to the brilliance in weight distribution inherent in the Bocksten design. MAN it's comfy.

For comparison, here's a replica of the original in the museum that houses the Bocksten find:
Bocksten Man.jpg
Bocksten Man.jpg (38.58 KiB) Viewed 23761 times
I chose to stay in my tree work clothing from a side job today to give a sharp contrast between my under-layers and the cloak. Helps to see the pattern a little better.

In this first image, we see it hanging fully downwards, with no folding or tucking. Kinda poncho-like, but definitely functional, and definitely warm. For those who are strictly in this for costuming purposes, I doubt there'd be an appreciation for this cloak, because at first glance, this really doesn't fit what most people have in mind for a Ranger. However, in the text, we find that a cloak that can cover a sword is used (and perhaps even invaluable!) so here we have it. Certainly works well as a built-in over-under blanket as well...I napped in it today, in fact. The second image shows the leading edge of the cloak tucked inside to open things up just a touch. Might call this the "tavern tuck"...like unbuttoning an outer layer, or unzipping your sweatshirt. Sword still concealed, but lets some air in and out, and the hands are plenty free to deal with eating, etc.
IMG_9458.JPG
IMG_9458.JPG (144.65 KiB) Viewed 23769 times
Down here, we start looking more familiar...more of that profile we're used to seeing. Here, I've quickly (literally...this took two seconds to accomplish, with no "dressing" done) gathered the front from the right (open) edge across towards my left, and thrown the whole mess over my shoulder. In the photo attached to my article, the folds were somewhat "stacked" on the shoulder, which wasn't as comfortable as throwing it across and back. This spreads out the weight and creates a natural layer of padding beneath the bedroll strap that would be placed atop all of that. Everybody wins.
IMG_9477.JPG
IMG_9477.JPG (230.95 KiB) Viewed 23769 times
I'll toss up some more photos showing the seams a little later, which were stitched with a gorgeous silvery-grey linen thread I found on ebay. The left shoulder seam was fairly heavily darted, which drew the much-longer-than-the-original cloak up off the ground a bit, and then the neck-hole followed by the right shoulder were tailored in turn. The half-circle was also progressively tailored a bit, so that the front half (in poncho-mode) is actually a few inches shorter by the time you get to the end. I used the string jig I used to draw the original half-circle on the fabric, but moved it along the straight edge about 6", so the new line gradually curved up sharper than the original, and lifted up the front a hair.

I did not piece it together like the original for the sake of ease of patterning, etc. Now that it's finished, I'm considering whether or not I'd like to cut it apart in the appropriate areas and re-stitch it to form that patchwork construction. It wasn't necessary for mine, though, because the fabric came in at 60" wide already.

Now, on to making the hood, and then we'll start doing some pics with the whole shebang starting to come together.
Now the sword shall come from under the cloak.
User avatar
Elleth
êphal ki-*raznahê
Posts: 2925
Joined: Wed Nov 03, 2010 5:26 am
Location: in the Angle; New England

Re: Bocksten 'Ranger' Cloak - From EotW Winter 16-17

Post by Elleth »

Oh that's very cool! (And dashing! )

... might I ask the weight of the wool you used? You said once you found the fabric you used for your surcoat too light for this application: is the cloak more a blanket weight?
Persona: Aerlinneth, Dúnedain of Amon Lendel c. TA 3010.
User avatar
Greg
Urush bithî 'nKi ya-nam bawâb
Posts: 4496
Joined: Tue Dec 02, 2008 8:50 pm
Location: Eriador; Central Indiana

Re: Bocksten 'Ranger' Cloak - From EotW Winter 16-17

Post by Greg »

Elleth wrote:... might I ask the weight of the wool you used? You said ounce you found the fabric you used for your surcoat too light for this application: is the cloak more a blanket weight?
Yes, I'd call it a blanket weight, but on the thinner side of that spectrum. It's a melton wool...lemme look it up real quick...

Ah-ha. 24 oz/square yard. There you go. My actual blanket is a GOOD deal heavier than this, but it functions for the purpose, will shed water reasonably (and still maintain heating properties when soaked) and warms up very quickly. If it were much heavier, it wouldn't be practical as a cloak, and would be too stiff as a hood to ever hang down, rather than covering the head.
Now the sword shall come from under the cloak.
Straelbora
Haeropada
Posts: 937
Joined: Mon Feb 11, 2013 7:00 pm
Location: Indianapolis, IN USA

Re: Bocksten 'Ranger' Cloak - From EotW Winter 16-17

Post by Straelbora »

In part because my sewing skills are so abysmal, in part because I'd like to spend my 'project time' on getting the Dragons Wood Inn in shape, I decided to have my friend who is a tailor who also does Colonial reenactment / sews all sorts of historical costume and garb make me a cape.

Some may recall the 1950s "Doris Day" mink stole I got for a dollar a pound at the Goodwill store. One of his patrons really liked it, so I traded it to her in exchange for the purchase of a coyote pelt. I told my friend to just go ahead and make a gray woolen cloak with a fur collar and let him run with it. Do a certain degree, 'anything goes' in Middle-earth recreation.

Hence, I am now the proud owner of a cloak that I think may have passed in Medieval times, but is certainly Colonial in certain features.
Attachments
Cape 4.jpg
Cape 4.jpg (69.1 KiB) Viewed 23703 times
Cape 3.jpg
Cape 3.jpg (64.84 KiB) Viewed 23703 times
Cape 2.jpg
Cape 2.jpg (66.81 KiB) Viewed 23703 times
Cape 1.jpg
Cape 1.jpg (67.73 KiB) Viewed 23703 times
Vápnum sínum skala maðr velli á
feti ganga framar því at óvist er at vita
nær verðr á vegum úti geirs um þörf guma
Hávamál
User avatar
Greg
Urush bithî 'nKi ya-nam bawâb
Posts: 4496
Joined: Tue Dec 02, 2008 8:50 pm
Location: Eriador; Central Indiana

Re: Bocksten 'Ranger' Cloak - From EotW Winter 16-17

Post by Greg »

Coyote, eh? Is it pretty warm? Hard to tell how long the fur is on that, and even harder when it's on the animal and they're keeping their wary distance.

Doesn't have to be "anything goes", though. Elrond furnished the Fellowship with fur-lined cloaks.
Now the sword shall come from under the cloak.
User avatar
Elleth
êphal ki-*raznahê
Posts: 2925
Joined: Wed Nov 03, 2010 5:26 am
Location: in the Angle; New England

Re: Bocksten 'Ranger' Cloak - From EotW Winter 16-17

Post by Elleth »

Oh I bet that'll be nice to bury your face in come the winter winds!

When I was in Alaska a friend gave me an old parka she had with (I think she said) wolf fur about the face. It's AMAZING how much difference it makes.
Persona: Aerlinneth, Dúnedain of Amon Lendel c. TA 3010.
User avatar
Greg
Urush bithî 'nKi ya-nam bawâb
Posts: 4496
Joined: Tue Dec 02, 2008 8:50 pm
Location: Eriador; Central Indiana

Re: Bocksten 'Ranger' Cloak - From EotW Winter 16-17

Post by Greg »

For what it's worth, most of those parkas use Fox Fur, which is often considered the warmest fur available (the Silvers being the most desirable for warmth, my sources tell me.)
Now the sword shall come from under the cloak.
User avatar
Kortoso
Haeropada
Posts: 822
Joined: Fri Oct 03, 2014 9:37 pm
Location: Chiang Mai, Thailand
Contact:

Re: Bocksten 'Ranger' Cloak - From EotW Winter 16-17

Post by Kortoso »

Looks very good, all around.
Is the fur detachable for when the weather warms up, or is it exclusively a winter cloak?
There are no safe paths in this part of the world. Remember you are over the Edge of the Wild now, and in for all sorts of fun wherever you go.
Straelbora
Haeropada
Posts: 937
Joined: Mon Feb 11, 2013 7:00 pm
Location: Indianapolis, IN USA

Re: Bocksten 'Ranger' Cloak - From EotW Winter 16-17

Post by Straelbora »

Greg wrote:Coyote, eh? Is it pretty warm? Hard to tell how long the fur is on that, and even harder when it's on the animal and they're keeping their wary distance.

Doesn't have to be "anything goes", though. Elrond furnished the Fellowship with fur-lined cloaks.
Of course, I've had the cloak a few days, and it's been warm. The fur is pretty thick. Maybe Indiana will actually have a winter next year and I'll get to test it out.
Vápnum sínum skala maðr velli á
feti ganga framar því at óvist er at vita
nær verðr á vegum úti geirs um þörf guma
Hávamál
Straelbora
Haeropada
Posts: 937
Joined: Mon Feb 11, 2013 7:00 pm
Location: Indianapolis, IN USA

Re: Bocksten 'Ranger' Cloak - From EotW Winter 16-17

Post by Straelbora »

Kortoso wrote:Looks very good, all around.
Is the fur detachable for when the weather warms up, or is it exclusively a winter cloak?
Strickly a winter cloak- the fur stays on. That's why I had it attached to gray wool. I have a 'suit wool' hooded cloak that's brown that I use for warmer weather.

I've decided that I want to have a winter set of garb, mostly wool, primarily grays with green and brown highlights, and a summer one of linen, mostly greens with gray and brown trim.
Vápnum sínum skala maðr velli á
feti ganga framar því at óvist er at vita
nær verðr á vegum úti geirs um þörf guma
Hávamál
User avatar
Manveruon
Thangailhir
Posts: 2582
Joined: Tue Nov 15, 2011 6:11 am
Location: Littleton, CO
Contact:

Re: Bocksten 'Ranger' Cloak - From EotW Winter 16-17

Post by Manveruon »

Yeah, I've been toying with the idea of having two or three distinct sets of garb for various times of the year - a bunch of heavy wool for the winter, lots of breathable linen for summer day-trips, and maybe one that has a mixture of both, but with lighter weight wools, for summer camping.

At any rate, the cloaks look great all around! I really dig that fur collar.

The Bocksten one looks extremely practical. The only change I'd make if it were mine would be to add some kind of clasp so it didn't have to be put on and taken off over the head. Still though, it cuts a dashing figure, and seems to really fit the bill for what we do. Love it!
Maerondir Perianseron, also called “Mickel,” Halfling Friend - Ranger of the Misty Mountains
User avatar
Elleth
êphal ki-*raznahê
Posts: 2925
Joined: Wed Nov 03, 2010 5:26 am
Location: in the Angle; New England

Re: Bocksten 'Ranger' Cloak - From EotW Winter 16-17

Post by Elleth »

Oh no Manv don't tell me that! I'm only now coming close to getting *one* set complete! :shock:
(I'm sure you're right though.. plus layers layers layers. )

For what it's worth, I found the sewn neck a fantastic breakthrough: I was agonizing over how to set closures, and sewing it shut just cut the Gordian knot perfectly.
(Greg's solutions tend to be like that I find. )

If there were lots of straps under the cloak I'd have a different opinion I think - but since it sits underneath anyway, and quivers and such will likely need to come off to remove it no matter what- there seems little downside and a great deal of stability in sewing up the neck.

That said, I've not actually gotten mine out in the woods: it's still got a couple hours of sewing left before it's ready.
Persona: Aerlinneth, Dúnedain of Amon Lendel c. TA 3010.
User avatar
kleenur
Wanderer
Posts: 40
Joined: Fri Dec 15, 2017 3:08 am
Location: Haverhill, NH USA
Contact:

Re: Bocksten 'Ranger' Cloak - From EotW Winter 16-17

Post by kleenur »

I thought I saw a reference to some sort of tutorial in one of the threads referencing this build (I have counted 3 so far). Is there a tutorial somewhere? Specifically the sewing parts I will struggle with unless I have very clear instructions. I'm a fair hand at banging on metal until it behaves, and shaping wood with sharp things until it behaves. Textiles, however are a complete mystery to me. This could have something to do with the fact that in middle school when I should have been learning the basics of sewing in Life Skills class I was thinking about D&D. The upside is that the girl who would eventually be my wife did the work for me (I reciprocated the gift in Computer Lit). In any case the last time I touched a sewing machine it committed suicide.
"All that is gold does not glitter,
Not all those who wander are lost;
The old that is strong does not wither,
Deep roots are not reached by the frost."


-J.R.R Tolkien
User avatar
Taurinor
Amrod Rhandir
Posts: 614
Joined: Sun Apr 28, 2013 9:06 pm
Location: Virginia
Contact:

Re: Bocksten 'Ranger' Cloak - From EotW Winter 16-17

Post by Taurinor »

Here’s the issue where Greg talked about the design and the like - http://www.budgetauthenticity.org/mers/ ... nter17.pdf

The Bocksten cloak is an extant garment that we’ve all be referencing - it’s a 14th century half circle cloak with a sewn neck closure.
- Ned Houndswood, Breelander
Richmond Fantasy-Inspired Hiking and Camping (on WordPress and Facebook)
User avatar
Elleth
êphal ki-*raznahê
Posts: 2925
Joined: Wed Nov 03, 2010 5:26 am
Location: in the Angle; New England

Re: Bocksten 'Ranger' Cloak - From EotW Winter 16-17

Post by Elleth »

Also watch this before you start cutting.

There's more going on in that neck hole than it looks at first glance:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OrPbq0-laFM
Persona: Aerlinneth, Dúnedain of Amon Lendel c. TA 3010.
Post Reply