Working On a New Jerkin

A place for pics and tutorials on making Soft Kit (clothing and accessories like buckles and cloak pins).

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Taurinor
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Re: Working On a New Jerkin

Post by Taurinor »

Cimrandir wrote:My apologies, I didn't intend to reignite the debate on the accuracy of jerkins.
No need to apologize! There are several topics that come up repeatedly on this forum, and jerkins are definitely one of them. If you're interested, this topic has some discussion of (sparse) textual evidence of the use of jerkins in Middle-earth (although not by Dunedain) and possible firsthand experience the Professor could have potentially had with similar garments (nothing we can prove, though). Not that Greg's very good points aren't perfectly good reasons to use one, of course!
Manveruon wrote:When I first posted about my intentions to split up the jerkin into smaller panels and add this “ladder” stitching (not the correct term, but I can’t seem to find what it’s actually called) over the top, I know Taurinor and a few others raised some debate as to its functionality, vs. just looking cool - but after deliberating on it for quite some time I decided to go forward with my original plan, and in the end I’m quite happy with how it’s turning out. There was some concern that this type of top-stitching would make the garment look too “Hollywood Fantasy,” and while some probably still feel this way, after doing the work on it I feel I can defend its practicality, because it really does reinforce the garment a great deal. Also, I deliberately kept my stitching extremely even and relatively small to avoid that “messy stitching” look that’s so common in modern fantasy.
I think it looks great! The stitching you were able to achieve is much tighter and neater looking than the mock-up image, which I think makes a world of difference. I think avoiding the Hollywood "messy stitching" really helped make this seem like a real garment, rather than a costume.

Always glad to be proven wrong in situations like this :mrgreen:
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Greg
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Re: Working On a New Jerkin

Post by Greg »

No apology necessary, friend!

When reasons like "Screw it, I like them" come up, I like throwing my own two cents into the mix, if only to bolster others' reasonings for using a functional garment...never intended it as an argument against your own preference! To each his own, and very valid arguments can be made for either direction.
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Manveruon
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Re: Working On a New Jerkin

Post by Manveruon »

Cimrandir wrote:My apologies, I didn't intend to reignite the debate on the accuracy of jerkins. They can definitely be useful and I will most likely make a version myself in the future. Right now, I'm considering a short sleeved Anglo-Saxon wrap-around coat for the extra warmth and as you say "silhouette" that separates us from a Robin Hood comparison.

I am very impressed with Manveruon's work. It really looks great.

Sorry again.
I keep meaning to respond to this but I just keep getting sidetracked and then lacking the time for a proper response - but just like Greg and Taurinor have said, I don’t think you have anything to be sorry for! I think we, as a group, have a tendency to go round-and-round on certain subjects like this because, honestly, they’re kinda’ fun to chew on and pick apart. Honestly, I think the main reason a lot of folks here have gone back and forth on the subject of jerkins over the years is because there really IS a great appeal to them, and even though there isn’t much textual evidence, it does seem like a pretty logical/practical garment - not to mention that they look good! Like Greg said, I think they do a great job of giving a kit that “plausible-fantasy” look - separating it from strict historical context, but without delving too far into the realm of “Hollywood fantasy,” if you will. As much as a lot of people feel the need to distance themselves from what the folks at Weta and New Line Cinema created for the LotR movies, I think we can all admit that they really could have done an awful lot worse, and Strider’s clothing in particular has a ton of merit.
That being said, I love your idea of the wrap-around coat! I’ve been toying with incorporating one into my own kit for a while now! I think they could be a really great addition to a Dúnedain Ranger’s kit, and look very much at home in Middle-Earth! I Can’t wait to see what you come up with!
Taurinor wrote:
Manveruon wrote:When I first posted about my intentions to split up the jerkin into smaller panels and add this “ladder” stitching (not the correct term, but I can’t seem to find what it’s actually called) over the top, I know Taurinor and a few others raised some debate as to its functionality, vs. just looking cool - but after deliberating on it for quite some time I decided to go forward with my original plan, and in the end I’m quite happy with how it’s turning out. There was some concern that this type of top-stitching would make the garment look too “Hollywood Fantasy,” and while some probably still feel this way, after doing the work on it I feel I can defend its practicality, because it really does reinforce the garment a great deal. Also, I deliberately kept my stitching extremely even and relatively small to avoid that “messy stitching” look that’s so common in modern fantasy.
I think it looks great! The stitching you were able to achieve is much tighter and neater looking than the mock-up image, which I think makes a world of difference. I think avoiding the Hollywood "messy stitching" really helped make this seem like a real garment, rather than a costume.

Always glad to be proven wrong in situations like this :mrgreen:
And Taurinor - Thank you very much! I have become very fond of visible, contrasting stitching lately as a means of subtle and historically-plausible embellishment, and I felt like this really just needed something to break up the large empty field of BROWN - not to mention that I do believe I was able to pattern it slightly more economically this way (although I left the rear skirts as single panels). In the end, I enjoy these kinds of discussions because they give me perspective and help inform my overall design aesthetic. I feel I have grown a lot over the years of being on this forum for this very reason, and learned how to tailor my kit to something that feels more real.
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Manveruon
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Re: Working On a New Jerkin

Post by Manveruon »

Here it is, folks! After many months, and too many hours of labor to count, I have FINALLY completed my new jerkin! And let me tell you, I LEVELED UP doing this project! This is definitely a whole new peak of leather garment construction for me.

To reiterate some of the stuff I mentioned before:
Every stitch of this was carefully hand-sewn with waxed linen thread, and I also hand-braided the leather closure ties myself. I saddle-stitched all the binding using two contrasting colors of thread to give the whole thing a little more visual detail, and I added a braided edge to every edge and vent, save for the rear skirt (had I realized just how long that braiding would take me I never would have done it, but by the time I figured that out I was committed!).

All the lacing holes were reinforced with heavier leather, as well as the patches on the front for the closure ties. I also heat-sealed every hole I punched with a wood burner to help harden them (I was told once that this helped prevent tearing, but I have no idea if that's true. Even so, I have done it on other past projects, and it has never seemed to HURT, so I figured why not?).

I still intend to add a layer of dubbin (or technically Tandy's Aussie leather conditioner, since it's what I have on hand) to help weatherproof it. This will darken it considerably, but I happen to like the way this leather looks when it's treated with that stuff. Finally, I will probably add some light weathering/distressing to help make it look a bit more lived-in. I know most folks here prefer to let their kits age naturally, but I'd just as soon to skip the step of wearing this for as many hours as that takes before it looks like an authentic part of my kit, so I'm going to just nudge that process along a little.

Anyway, here it is! Enjoy this enormous photo-dump!

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Last edited by Manveruon on Wed Aug 26, 2020 3:33 am, edited 3 times in total.
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Re: Working On a New Jerkin

Post by Iodo »

Manveruon wrote:Here it is, folks! After many months, and too many hours of labor to count, I have FINALLY completed my new jerkin! And let me tell you, I LEVELED UP doing this project!
You certainly did :lol: this is absolutely amazing, fine work indeed :P
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Ghostsoldier
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Re: Working On a New Jerkin

Post by Ghostsoldier »

By the gods...that's one of the most beautiful articles of handmade clothing I've ever seen, Michael...WELL DONE, my friend!

I'm simply blown away by the craftsmanship and attention to detail...simply amazing. I'll hazard to say that at this point in the clothing game you're more of a wizard than a Ranger! :P

Rob
Last edited by Ghostsoldier on Mon Aug 24, 2020 2:15 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Peter Remling
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Re: Working On a New Jerkin

Post by Peter Remling »

Now that's a WOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I just burned my toast looking at the details in the pics. :D
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Re: Working On a New Jerkin

Post by Eofor »

That.... is.... amazing! Seriously my friend that is some really top tier craftsmanship and the beauty of it reflects the MANY hours you have bestowed on the project.

Oh and i'm so glad you took ownership of that star, it looks like it was made for that outfit!
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Re: Working On a New Jerkin

Post by Greg »

Very well done, Manveruon. You definitely put your time in on that one.
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Re: Working On a New Jerkin

Post by Elleth »

Oh my word....

Please excuse me while I pick my jaw back off the floor.

That is some stunning work!!

WOW!


oh - I've been wondering how those ties work out after you've been out and about and the knots have had miles on the trail to work in:

Do you have much of a problem getting them undone at the end of the walk / need a fid or something to get the knots loose?
Or does the braided leather not have much of a problem with that?
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Manveruon
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Re: Working On a New Jerkin

Post by Manveruon »

Thanks so much everyone! I'm extremely proud of how this came out! Sorry about your toast, Peter, haha! I am humbled by the high praise! Now hopefully I can get my boots refurbished quickly so that I can finally get back out on the trail again! Maybe by the time the leaves start to change? Here's hoping!
Elleth wrote:oh - I've been wondering how those ties work out after you've been out and about and the knots have had miles on the trail to work in:

Do you have much of a problem getting them undone at the end of the walk / need a fid or something to get the knots loose?
Or does the braided leather not have much of a problem with that?
So yeah, that's a good question! The short answer is, yes, they can be kind of a pain to get untied, especially after a long trek. However, it's generally not TOO-TOO bad. I always make sure to tie them in a square not so that I Know I can at least eventually get them undone, but it can be a little tricky. Most of the time I don't need anything like a fid for the job, but I've definitely had moments when I wished I had one. Even so, I've always been able to get them undone with a little fiddling, and if one were to tie them in more of a half-bow or such it would be much easier.
Also, I will say that the ties on my Aragorn jerkin (while actually somewhat mismatched) are mostly made of a much stiffer leather, and they seem to not quite grip each other as much as these ties do. I braided these ties myself from extremely narrow strips of the same leather I made the main body of the jerkin from, and then hit them with a coat of Aussie-wax finish, and as such they are QUITE grippy. But overall, I don't mind because it means they should remain tied well while in use.
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Re: Working On a New Jerkin

Post by Manveruon »

(Oh, and I went ahead and edited my above post to fix all the picture sizes! Now they're all clickable links so you can view the full sizes directly on my Imgur if you so choose!)
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Re: Working On a New Jerkin

Post by Cimrandir »

Oh, that is amazing! Very well done. It seems hand-making, no matter how tedious, makes stunning work. Very well done indeed.
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Re: Working On a New Jerkin

Post by theowl »

Dude
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Re: Working On a New Jerkin

Post by BrianGrubbs »

Wow. WOW. That is incredible work!
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