The boot-build actually begins

[hesinraca]

THis is sort of a tangent, but entirely related.

I have a pair of scaboots.com robinhood boots that are about 6 years old. The inside sole is made of a layered paper plus a metal spine and some foam, all of which are completely destroyed. So I had questions about replacing/adding soles to the inside of boots..

Second issue is I am going to be altering them, since the pirate thing was a loooong time ago. I'm going to do this by cutting the top part off and using it as patching leather, since that wil still leave them as high calf boots.

Question is: since I ahve to cut parts of the boot and sew in additional sections for my design, it will add seams. I don't necessarily need to be able to swim in them and stay dry, but any ideas on how to waterproof seams?
I once heard that if you pull the seam tight apart after its sewn and drip hot bees wax into it, then rub your finger down the seam to press it in, that works fairly well...

[Peter Remling]

Sounds like it should work just fine. While you're at it you might as well do the same with your existing seems, it certainly couldn't hurt. Keep us posted on your results, sounds interesting.

[Eric C]

Actually I'll be following this with interest. I am wondering how water tight some of my seams are going to be when I'm done with the boots. So, I'll be paying attention to your posts on the subject.

[Eric C]

As I have thought of making these boots for quite some time now, I have often wondered about different ways to make a sole with some traction. I've heard of using conveyor belt material, but I don't see how that would add traction as it looks pretty slick too. Then there's the possibility of finding a shoe repairman hiding in the dirty basement of some long forgotten store somewhere and getting him to add some kind of rubber sole with a better traction. In American Civ War reenacting, many of the guys used heel plates on their brogans. If you're unfamiliar, they resemble horseshoes that you nail to the heels of your boots. But I've known them to land you on your backside on wet floors. Then there's an idea a friend of mine offered me.
What if you take the leather for the outer sole, which is 1/4" in this case, and stamp a pattern into it that would offer some traction? Something like a couple of chevrons or something like that. What ideas do you have? This step is coming up quickly for one of the boots, so let me know what you think.

[Peter Remling]

Stamping a pattern would only compress part of the leather and would most likely make it more slick. How about something like hobnails, possibly rivets through the bottom layer only. I'd suggest a padded insole but it should add traction and add to the overall life of the sole, similar to the nails used to extend the life of Roman sandels.

I'm also considering trying Sodhoppers' Goop. It's a mixture of shredded tires and barge cement that Sodhopper uses on some of his mocs. It's applied with a knife, left set for 2-3 days and reapply. Generally 3-4 layers is suffienct. It can later be reapplied.

[Andy M]

I glued a leather midsole on my boots. I then had a shoe shop put on a rubber sole that has a slight texture on the bottom. Not enough to keep me from taking some very Un-Ranger like falls, especially being used to Vibram soles most of my career. I have gotten used to the soles.
The reality is that if I spent that much time on these boots I don't want to go out for a long trip and have them trashed because of a leather sole.
Again, I have no advantage with traction, I just have a sole that will last.

As for seam sealing, When you attach the upper to the topsole for the final time, you'll also be stitching the seam binding along the edge. You then apply glue to the binding and the shoe seam as well as the under side of the topsole. Once you fold the seam binding over everything you have a pretty good seal even before treating the leather.

I'll explain this better when we talk tonight Eric.

It's really easier than it sounds.

[hesinraca]

I second the Vote for Sodhopper goop, its amazing, I bought a sample cup at one point. I think you can get shredded rubber from tire reclaim places, at least they might let you have a little, in which case you could make it yourself and not pay for the "Sodhopper Goop" label, if they add any markup.

As for the wax-seams. I did an apprenticeship with a man that makes those leather cups and canteens, and we did wax courbouli with bees wax and a heat gun, but it was never intended as a seam-sealer. On the other hand, the seams of the cups did seal pretty well.

FOr cups you also use excilite, or the medieval alternative which is resin wax. I imagine, if its flexible, resin wax would be a good idea. Problem is I don't know exactly what it is or where to get it...

[Eric C]

I ran across something at work today. I was behind the mill and I saw that maintenance had changed a rubber belt on the log debarker. The old belt was laying beside the trash can. It gave me an idea. I'm not talking about an automotive V-belt, mind you. I'm talking a 4" wide belt with multiple ribs on the underside. I asked about it and one of the supervisors said it was trash, take it. So I did. I am going to work with it and see if I can turn it into a good sole to attach to the thick rubber outer sole. I'll play with it and see what I come up with. If it doesn't turn out right before I attach it to the boots, then it goes into the trash where it was headed in the first place.

[Eric C]

Well, with the house mostly in order, I have sat down to work on the boots a little more. A couple of weeks ago, I dragged the afore mentioned rubber belt up to the carport where it has sat taunting my wife ever since. This evening, I went out with a ruler and a razor knife and cut off nine six-inch pieces of the belt. I plan to start playing with it to see how useful it will be as a sole on the boots- as mentioned before. After cutting the pieces, I had my "Duh" moment of the day. I started wondering how to clean the grease, oils and dirt from the pieces I cut off. Well, I first grabbed what's left of my acetone, but I didn't know if it would have a bad reaction with the rubber. Then I thought of brake or carburator cleaner. Again, there was the idea of an adverse reaction. Those are pretty serious chemicals. Then I saw the bleach cleaner sitting in our bathroon and thought of it. Well, then it hit me, what about hot water, dish detergent and a scrub brush?! Dish detergent is formulated to remove grease, oil and dirt. So, now I am about to drop the pieces into a pan of hot soapy water to let them soak for a while. Any other cleaning methods you'd recomend?
Maybe I'll have pics soon, but I make no promises there.

[david lewis smith]

Hot soapy water is best with rubber. really hot water and a scrub brush,

you should let it dry a few days

[Peter Remling]

Try a lemon! A lttle lemon oil mixed with the dishsoap and water makes a great degreaser. It's also safe of your hands for cleanup.

I was wondering about the ribbing on the underside. If it's all equidistant horizontal ribs you might want to trim some of the inner ribs down to allow greater flexibility. Similar to modern work/hiker boot soles.

[Eric C]

I didn't think about lemon, but it does do a pretty good job as a cleaner.
The ribbing is pretty thick, and is all equidistant. I am planning on sanding down a lot of it so that it isn't as noticeable. But I could easily leave enough to do what you are saying. I live in the middle of blood-red clay here and it is as slick as ice when it gets wet. So, good tread is a must around here if you are tromping in the woods.

[Eric C]

Well, I've been playing around with the boots today. I've been looking at the thick wide rubber belt I mentioned before. It is going to be highly visible thus taking away from the overall appearance of the boots. Then there's a much smaller ribbed belt that I brought home. I'm afraid that by putting strips of this belt on the soles of the boots, it is going to make them uncomfortable. I think I am going to go with the hobnail idea. I'll buy some domed rivets and either add another layer of leather inside the boot or add a store-bought insole to protect from the rivet. I could still rethink this whole thing and go with the Sodhopper's goop. But for now, I'm going with the hobnail idea.

Hesinraca, how is the boot alteration going?

[hesinraca]

Sorry for such a delay, It's been quite busy getting this school stuff done with. I haven't actually gotten to altering the boots, but I did do some test samples with the bees wax. It seams to me that it would work well but it might be a good idea to oil the outside of the seam, and rubbing the bees wax down the inside crack. The places where I tried doing a lot just dried and cracked and the places where it was just a little bit right along the back of the threads worked well. Looking into better options though, so I'll let you know if I find any.

[Beornmann]

Hey Eric,

Did you get the emails I sent with the boot info?

Andy

Andy/Eric/someone,
Could you send me the boot notes? I'm curious and might start my own adventure as a cobbler.