Hey Panday.

[Frothgar]

Hey man, i saw that porject you posted in this topic:

http://www.ranger.budgetauthenticity.or ... 55&start=0

The one with the Cold steel pole axe. i have the same axe and would like to make similar modifiactions. if your still around i had a couple questions for you.

Later.

[Panday]

Ask away, Frothgar.

[Frothgar]

have you used it since youve made the modifications?

is it sturdy and rugged, will it hold up for a long time of use?

any mistakes younoticed in making it that you wish you could redo?

Where can you find ash shafts like that?

[Panday]

Frothgar,

Sorry this reply is so tardy.

have you used it since youve made the modifications?

I used the axe right after it finished on a couple of 2x4s. I put a slightly sharper edge on the head by drawing back the bevel about 1/2" farther into the blade. It cut very well.

is it sturdy and rugged, will it hold up for a long time of use?

There's no doubt in my mind that it would hold up for a long time. I used part of the longer ash handle which Cold Steel sent along with the axe. I put gorilla glue in the eye hole, and I also left one screw hole in the eye which I tightened down and sealed with a drop of loctite. If I ever had to rehandle it (doubtful with a 1 1/4" ash handle), I'd have to burn and/or drill it out of there.

any mistakes younoticed in making it that you wish you could redo?

My hands are only size M, so I find the round handle to be just a smidge too thick and it has a slight tendency to rotate in my hand. I've been thinking of removing some of the wood to give it a slight oval shape, but haven't gotten around to it.

Where can you find ash shafts like that?

I used the one which came with the head. I'm certain that any lumber store would carry ash or hickory dowels. They would also stock closet rods made of oak (oak should be sturdy enough, even though it's not as flexible as, say, ash). You could probably also use something like sledgehammer handle. Doublecheck the thickness compared to the eyehole.

Good luck. I hope you put up some pictures!

[Greg]

Any chance you'd be willing to share some bits of that patina formula of yours with us? I've been wanting to make an axe like this for quite some time, and yours looks nothing short of excellent.

[Panday]

Any chance you'd be willing to share some bits of that patina formula of yours with us? I've been wanting to make an axe like this for quite some time, and yours looks nothing short of excellent.

Oh, hell, why not?

On this piece (and others), I stripped the steel and clean it. Then I took a giant pot and filled it with a mix of 1/2 water, 1/4 vinegar, and 1/4 salt. I then brought it to a boil and immersed it for about 10 minutes (5-20 is what I normally do).

If you use this method, it will be a flat, dark gray (almost like flat paint on a wall), and much of the patination will actually "chalk" off. Not like dust, but more like a thin layer of dirt, I suppose. I clean it several times with WD-40 and a rag, until I get a bit of luster again. Here are some other things I made and then boiled:
small hatchet:

another small hatchet:

Here's a rock hammer which I cut and shaped into a warhammer. This is the head right after a 20 minute boil:

and after clean-up:

a fighting knife:



Another thing which works well is to apply mustard and let it sit for 1/3 days. Wash it off and clean it with windex or WD-40 when you're finished. You can keep doing it until you get the darkness you like. This finish offers a bit more randomness to the patina. Here are some things I made and then mustard-patinated:
Cleaver-knife:

Hunting knife:

[Willrett]

Some nice looking toys you got there.

[Panday]

Some nice looking toys you got there.

Thanks. All of these others have new owners now. They've been happy with them.