Specific Boots

hesinraca · Post by **hesinraca** » Wed May 14, 2008 9:38 pm

Ok, so I currently have a pair of SCAboots.com robin hood boots. Very excellent boots. they're over 4 years old and the lining just died out of them, but otherwise they're still mostly waterproof and the sole is solid. BUT, they're the wrong style for the sort of dress I am working towards.

I really like the un-polished elk hide look, similiar to this stuff I used on my arm guard: http://fuyurou.deviantart.com/art/Arm-Guard-42782658

More or less, I want to buy/make thick elk hide boots, possibly in that sort of scrappy look like the arm guard. Problem is, the only options I've found are ALL the stereotypical tall-mocasin boot with the horseshoe toe seam and the dangly bits around the upper trip....and neither is desirable...

thoughts?

Post by **Peter Remling** » Thu May 15, 2008 1:07 am

Can you make a sketch of what you'd like them to look like, or copy something from one of the better moc makers' site, so we have a better idea of what you're looking for.

The elkhide looks a little light weight for moc uppers, take a look at buffalo hide. There are some decent pieces at good prices on Ebay as we speak.

Check out Andy's boots on www.meranger.com do you want something similar but lower, bear in mind that ankle support is a big asset in the wild plus a neat place to keep that extra knife.

hesinraca · Post by **hesinraca** » Thu May 15, 2008 4:18 am

These are close: http://www.meranger.com/IMG_0015_op_800x764.jpg

Just not as polished with the seam running up the center of the boot along the outside of the instep. I will draw photos after midterms and post them.

Is buffalo similiar in appearance to that? I was thinking with the elk I'd ake the boots out of scrap pieces so that they were effectivly two layers thick and then sew a canvas booty that I'd spray with water proof spray and talk powder to wear inside of them (this being in addition to socks).

I'll do sketches, pause on this thread and I'll get back to you;)

Gareth · Post by **Gareth** » Thu May 15, 2008 7:57 am

mcapanelli · Post by **mcapanelli** » Thu May 15, 2008 4:40 pm

I have a pair of Sodhoppers and while I wouldn't walk through a stream with them they're just wonderful to walk in on a long hike. Like walking on air but retaining the tactile response of being barefoot.

Andy M · Post by **Andy M** » Thu May 15, 2008 6:50 pm

Hey hesinraca

The boots I made for myself were with deer tanned cow hide lined with pigskin. They are suprisingly water proof.

I started out with a pair of Sodhoppers and like Mike said, they are very easy to walk in but due to the upper/topsole seam, they will take in water.

Andy

Gareth · Post by **Gareth** » Thu May 15, 2008 8:14 pm

mcapanelli · Post by **mcapanelli** » Thu May 15, 2008 9:07 pm

According to the maker waterproofing is not the best idea for his boots. The nature of his design is such that the boot needs to "Breath". If it's inhibited in any way the leather won't effectively whisk away the moisture from your feet and will start to deteriorate right quick as the salts and toxins contained in your sweat will be stuck there and accumulate. Anyway it's the design that causes them to take in water and not the leather itself. The Moc when unlaced opens to your ankle so it's the seam that let's the water in. I Still love them though. Even if they do get wet you just take out the insole and hang them upside down on a broomstick handle.

Andy M · Post by **Andy M** » Thu May 15, 2008 10:13 pm

The Sodhoppers boots I have are Bison and I don't think that leather would take beeswax well. Like Mike said, it's the design, namely the bottom seam that lets the water in. If you completely seal a boot the moisture and fungus and all other bad things will collect.
Leather boots won't wick away moisture fast enough to be effective as fabric will, even when untreated. Even the modern "water-proof" boots although made with breathable membraines, are really made to keep your feet protected from the outside. Just the weight of the material keeps it from wicking away moisture and drying the way the lighter G-tex garments do.
Light deerskin mocs will dry much quicker than the old black leather combat boots but not fast enough to consider it wicking the moisture away.
You should plan on getting out of your boots as often as possible and changing socks/wraps when-ever you can.

Andy

hesinraca · Post by **hesinraca** » Thu May 15, 2008 10:35 pm

Thats why I figured a combination of canvass booties and wool hiking socks would be good because you can make a few pairs of the booties and hav some drying while the others are on, and then the inside of the boot is protected from sweat residue... either way, running around in scaboots.com pirate boots is hardly effecient, the soles are good for intense trail hiking but there's no strapping to tighten the ankle support... I was thinking of modifying my pirate-boots since they are falling apart inside anyways...