Comments on Caedmon's Stitch of the Week

[Ernildir]

Thank you! 4mm sounds good to me.

[Manveruon]

Excellent info, thanks!

[Ernildir]

Before I start hand-stitching the first couple steps of the kyrtle, I need to be sure I know what I'm doing, since I have never really had any sewing instruction before, and don't even know basic terminology or standard procedure. Anything I've sewn in the past has just been me trying to figure it out on my own and very unprofessional. So a couple questions:

When backstitching, for example, the gussets to the arm pieces, approximately how much should the material be overlapping? I suppose I would backstitch along one piece of material and the other edge would protrude perhaps a centimeter or so. Then, what does it mean to "reinforce" it? Would that be going along the second protruding edge so I have two parallel lines of backsitching? If all of this is wrong, then I haven't the slightest idea what I should actually be doing, and would appreciate precise direction on the matter.

Also, which piece of material should be overlapping which (if that makes any sense)?

[caedmon]

Before I start hand-stitching the first couple steps of the kyrtle, I need to be sure I know what I'm doing, since I have never really had any sewing instruction before, and don't even know basic terminology or standard procedure. Anything I've sewn in the past has just been me trying to figure it out on my own and very unprofessional. So a couple questions:

When backstitching, for example, the gussets to the arm pieces, approximately how much should the material be overlapping? I suppose I would backstitch along one piece of material and the other edge would protrude perhaps a centimeter or so. Then, what does it mean to "reinforce" it? Would that be going along the second protruding edge so I have two parallel lines of backsitching? If all of this is wrong, then I haven't the slightest idea what I should actually be doing, and would appreciate precise direction on the matter.

Also, which piece of material should be overlapping which (if that makes any sense)?

Ok, just to make sure, because I'm not getting it from your post, but it may be a terminology issue...

The cloth should generally not overlap. Overlap means putting one piece on top of the other and sewing them together. You almost always start sewing pieces together with right sides together (the sides of the cloth that you want to be on the outside are together and sewn together, and then are folded out so that you do not ever see any edge of the cloth on the finished garment. The distance between the seam and the edge of the cloth is the Seam Allowance. Seam allowance width varies by the garment and the part of the garment. A good rule of thumb is to have at least 5/8" (1.5 cm) for most stitches.

I just posted the reinforced stitch a couple of minutes ago. Sorry for posting the beginning sewing directions without it. What you surmise was a reinforced seam sounds like a flat-felled seam ( Like the main seams on jeans) I will cover that one later.

[Ernildir]

Thanks!

Here is my next guess, then. Let's see if I'm getting any closer:

I effectively place the two edges of cloth right next to one another so that they form a flat plane with no overlapping. I then allow approximately 1.5cm to hang down from each piece of cloth at the joining point, forming right angles with the plane. These are stitched together. Then each flap of 1.5 cm is folded up so that they are now parallel with the plane and reinforcement is achieved by stitching each of these to the above pieces of cloth along the edges of the flaps.

[Ernildir]

What type of stitching is it advisable to use on a heavy wool hooded cloak?

[deadextra]

Are you doing a hem on the cloak or what?

[Ernildir]

It will certainly at least have some seams. I don't know whether or not I should hem it.

[Manveruon]

For the seams themselves, it sounds like a backstitch is probably a good bet. I'd say a running stitch might be a bit too light-duty. And as for the hems, my personal favorite is the blanket stitch. Even if you don't actually roll the hems under, the blanket stitch can really help the material not to fray as much, and it gives a neat decorative finish - especially if you use a contrasting thread color.

[Ernildir]

Sounds good. And should I use the means of reinforcing as described by Caedmon?

[caedmon]

Hey all, here is a site I just found, I'm still doing my stitch thread, but if I reference something I haven't listed yet you should be able to see it here.

http://heatherrosejones.com/archaeologi ... /wool.html