Flint and Steel Issues

[Greg]

Okay, I'm fed up and need some advice.

I can't for the life of me get a spark to land on my charcloth. And, on the rare occasions when I do, it's never big enough to keep going. I blow until kingdom come (and I'm a brass musician; I've got some serious wind in my pipes) but it just goes out.

How the heck do you aim this stuff and/or get it on your cloth in an effective way? Any and all help is greatly appreciated.

Cold and starved,

Greg

[Peter Remling]

Okay, I'm fed up and need some advice.



Cold and starved,

Greg

Bring a bag lunch!

Some people, take the flint in one hand and move the striker onto the flint. I think it's easier to aim, holding the striker stationary over the charcloth and stirking with the flint. Keep you hand only an inch or 2 above your charcloth/tinder as the spark can cool as it falls.

If your sparks are very small try another flint, some chip easier causeing larger sparks.


Another thing that may be an issue: placeing the charcloth directly on the ground will cause much of the sparks heat to disipate into the ground, growing cold before it has a chance to start a fire.

[Andy M]

I do like Peter described. Hold the striker close to the charcloth which is in the nest. Use Kentucky windage to move the sparks point of impact. The smallest of sparks should be enough to burn the cloth if it's been chared properly.

[Lindsey R]

I spent a summer portraying a Voyageur in a Provincial Park. My technique was always to prepare my tinder, steel in my right hand, flint cupped in my left hand with the corner of a piece of charcloth tucked under my index finger. My char cloth pieces were usually about 1" by 1". Strike the flint with the steel, and the sparks have to really TRY not to hit the cloth. When you see a glow, drop the cloth into your tinder, then start puffing. I've always found short sharp puffs work the best...like a steam train...puff puff puff. This technique has always seemed to work well for me, I'd love to hear what others use.

[Chris Russo]

I do something fairly similar to what Lindsey describes.

I hold the flint in my left hand, edge upward, with my thumb holding the charcloth atop it, only about a few millimeters from the edge. With my right I bring the striker down across the flint's edge. With the charcloth that close, the sparks go into the cloth a good 70% of the time, which in practical terms means only a few strikes.

I almost never put the charcloth in my prepared bird's nest until after it's glowing.

I move the striker instead of the flint because the striker protects my knuckles. Every time I've moved the flint to the striker, I eventually end up missing the striker and scraping myself. (Flint can be quite sharp...)

[Andy M]

Hey Chris, How've you been?

I need to start practising Yours and Lindsey's technigue.

[Chris Russo]

Hey Chris, How've you been?

Fairly well, all things considering. And yourself?

[hesinraca]

I will ahve to try these techniques, but I am having a different steel issue: what the heck are those things made out of? I forged one out really quick and sanded it up to the grit to match the a friend bought at the frontier fair and it doesn't spark at all, it actually gets dented by the flint. Anyone know what type of steel is ideal for this? Do I need to temper it as well?

thanks!

[Eledhwen]

High carbon steel, as opposed to mild steel.

Siani

[hesinraca]

Huh. Well, i was 95% sure it was a scrap of 1095, but I will try again with something else;)

[Chris Russo]

More than high-carbon: the steel has to be really really hard. They use old files to make many of them, because files require the same level of hardness.

If the steel's too soft, it dents. If it's hard, it makes tiny tiny chips.

[hesinraca]

Ah, I do remember that now, I've seen steels made from old files with the teeth still on and everything. I don't have any files that are ready to be born-anew, but I will look up some steel ratings for file companies and try to find a scrap of that;)

[Eledhwen]

Think 'frizzen' from a flintlock; they are seriously hardened because they are striker plates.

Siani