Cold Steel Seax project (continued)

Ringulf · Post by **Ringulf** » Wed Apr 04, 2012 8:54 pm

Yes it was, and you could do that but to save a bit of leather I would make some tipe of core. I have used half round wood "scales" by cutting a 1" dowel or broomstick to leghnth then split it and fix it to the tang and cover it or as in the case of my Gulinbursti seen below, I wrapped it tightly with very strong duct tape and sprayed it with spray seal then wrapped it with the latigo leather lacing. There are lots of core and wrap possibilities use what you got!

Ernildir · Post by **Ernildir** » Thu Apr 05, 2012 12:34 am

I like the idea of a core. How would you recommend I split a broomstick after cutting it down to length? I don't have any particularly precise or keen tools.

And how did you get that pommelish thing on yours?

Ringulf · Post by **Ringulf** » Thu Apr 05, 2012 1:48 am

Gullenbursti is actually a pretty cheap Pakistani blade. but I have loved the shape of this style for years....Is it a knife?...is it an axe?...Who cares!
It's just what a dwarf wants to use if he is feeling Knife-ish and does not want to go for the seax!

I have seen them with finger ring guards and full brass knuckle type guards, or made from one flat peice with an index finger hole and handle wrapped in parracord, but to my chagrin I grabbed this one and it was in pretty bad shape.
I removed the guady handle and it had a thin rat tail tang.
I welded two peieces of 1/4" bar stock above and below and left about 3/4" of threading on the end.
I did what I mentiioned before for the handle and I found an old screw on Toledo pummel from a broken Mainne Gauche I have had for years and just screwed it on.

The thing throws like the devil, if it were not so fantastical looking with all its little spines and cuts, I would make it a close friend, Perhaps I will trace the shape and cut a few out without all the fancy stuff. But I don't want my seax getting jealous! (as if she has anything to worry about with all the tournaments she is doing well at!) Women! They are so insecure!

Ernildir · Post by **Ernildir** » Thu Apr 05, 2012 2:09 am

Women.

Well, thanks for the info, Ringulf. Hopefully I will be able to give this a try during my spring break in a couple weeks.

Ringulf · Post by **Ringulf** » Thu Apr 05, 2012 3:44 am

OH! PS hee hee, best way I know to split the broomstick is with a table saw set at half the thickness of the broom. a band saw or even a back saw with a miter box could do it. Then when you have it cut take the flat faces and sand them so that you have them sanded down to about the thickness of the tang between them.

Ringulf · Post by **Ringulf** » Wed Apr 18, 2012 10:31 pm

More CS Seax knives to look at. I made these for my Mentors Odus De Radford and Timucuan. I wanted to thank them for all the help given to me to get my thrown weapons marshalate and to make the Moot a sucess. I wanted them to look good but not too pretty to throw and made the sheaths in the Ranger Moot colors. The antlered one also got a simular scabard. All were adorned acording to their personas and the mentor pair was decorated with knotwork and runes bearing their names.

The cool part about the copper guard cap and butt cap is that eventually they will turn green and be even more rangery!

Aaron · Post by **Aaron** » Wed Apr 18, 2012 10:39 pm

Those turned out fabulous, Scott! REALLY dig that copper.

What brand polymer clay are you using? I've tried out Sculpey III for various (Harry Potter related, lol) projects and found it to be pretty fun stuff.

Ringulf · Post by **Ringulf** » Wed Apr 18, 2012 10:55 pm

I use a mixture of Super Sculpey with a bit of of Sculpey lll black and brown mixed in for suppleness and color.

By itself, The Super Sculpey is very hard, almost ceramic-like but adding in a bit of the more maliable Sculpey lll gives it enough resiliancy and flexability not to crack or shatter while also leaving it hard and polishable. (it is oddly like tempering a steel blade)

I use a black and brown shoe polish as a protective coat and a way to build luster into the simulated wooden handle.

I am afraid it is kind of like French cooking though, a little of this, a pinch of that, experience makes up for recepies, so it is all experimantation as to the mixtures.

Ernildir · Post by **Ernildir** » Wed Apr 18, 2012 11:26 pm

Looks great!

How do you remove the black stuff from the blades, by the way? :p

Aaron · Post by **Aaron** » Thu Apr 19, 2012 12:08 am

Ringulf wrote:I use a mixture of Super Sculpey with a bit of of Sculpey lll black and brown mixed in for suppleness and color.

By itself, The Super Sculpey is very hard, almost ceramic-like but adding in a bit of the more maliable Sculpey lll gives it enough resiliancy and flexability not to crack or shatter while also leaving it hard and polishable. (it is oddly like tempering a steel blade)

I use a black and brown shoe polish as a protective coat and a way to build luster into the simulated wooden handle.

I am afraid it is kind of like French cooking though, a little of this, a pinch of that, experience makes up for recepies, so it is all experimantation as to the mixtures.

Excellent, thanks. I've found that Sculpey III is great for "light duty" but anything rough and it breaks easily. I can see how Super Sculpey mixed in would get rid of that problem. And I know how you feel on the mixing...I dreaded having to figure out how to get just the right shade or when I mixed patterns of two different colors into my pieces (tried to simulate ironwood, didn't come out too bad really). I tried to get the polished wood grain look AFTER hardening, probably would have been much more effective to do it before baking.

kaelln · Post by **kaelln** » Thu Apr 19, 2012 1:53 am

Love, love, love the two mentor blades! Really spectacular!

Ringulf · Post by **Ringulf** » Thu Apr 19, 2012 2:44 am

Ernildhir wrote:Looks great!

How do you remove the black stuff from the blades, by the way? :p

I have found that working them by hand with a fine grit sanding sponge works well enough for me but it is messy. A sanding drum that was backed with foam would work to, I used to use them on a drill press or electric drill as I did not have a spindle sander. But a good old sanding sponge and elbow grease lets you remove the black and not mar the surface of the metal. leave just a bit on and it looks like the blade is older.

One caution though, be carful to sand off of the edge of the blade, those puppies are sharp!

And Kealin, Thanks we can incorporate a lot of that into ours.

Ernildir · Post by **Ernildir** » Thu Apr 19, 2012 7:18 am

Thank you once again, Ringulf. I actually finished rehilting the thing today. Now I just need to get that black stuff off with some sand paper, apparently.

Willrett · Post by **Willrett** » Thu Apr 19, 2012 11:50 am

those blades look amazing Great work.

Ringulf · Post by **Ringulf** » Fri Apr 20, 2012 3:16 am

Ernildhir wrote:Thank you once again, Ringulf. I actually finished rehilting the thing today. Now I just need to get that black stuff off with some sand paper, apparently.

Sandpaper will work Ernildir, but I think you will have better results with the sanding blocks. They are made of spongy foam, and you can get them at any hardware or home depot type store in fine and medium grits.

I got a package of 10 for around $3.50 at harbor frieght and they work fine.

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