Middle Earth Ranger Forum

Another quiver question for those who've made / used "Ranger Style" quivers with a fabric "sock" in a leather quiver: specifically I'm thinking of Greg's and Urthgard, but I think Manveruon's is functionally similar enough for the question to be meaningful.

Mostly I'll be modelling mine after Urthgard's I think:
One question before I start cutting templates: it looks like all of you have left a good deal of space between the top of the leather portion of the quiver and the bottom of the arrow fletching that's only covered with fabric. Is that a functional choice - more room for the "sock" to scootch down without interference from the leather portion perhaps - or is it simply a stylistic choice? Did you do much trial and error to get the height you were looking for?




As an aside... I just cut an ash "war arrow" shaft from 3 Rivers to a "standard arrow" regulation size, and stuck a head on one end and taped my fletching template to the other just to get an idea of how to fit the quiver - these things are HUGE.
(Caedmon, Greg - I started this as a separate topic from my what leather weight for a quiver topic of a couple days ago so that later forumites might have an easier time finding what the look for: my apologies if it's too similar and should have been folded into the previous topic)

Length of quiver = distance arm has to travel in a near-vertical direction before arrow is freed. You'll note on both mine and Urthgard's that there is a V-shaped dip in the front. Releases the point sooner during the draw. The sock will change this, but only moderately.

The side that's against your back should be taller, however (in my experience) so your strap(s) can attach higher, keeping the nocks from being too high/nae unreachable.

Derp!

Of course. I was so busy thinking "gosh, are the arrows protected enough?" I didn't realize I was inviting the whole "drawing something off the back" issue.
Hrm.. decisions decisions. Thank you!

Now that you've brought in the war arrow, I have to ask:
How many of our quivers are designed for target blunts and would not work with broadheads? (Understanding that the Mary Rose quivers were probably for bodkin arrows...)

Greg wrote:Length of quiver = distance arm has to travel in a near-vertical direction before arrow is freed. You'll note on both mine and Urthgard's that there is a V-shaped dip in the front. Releases the point sooner during the draw. The sock will change this, but only moderately.

The side that's against your back should be taller, however (in my experience) so your strap(s) can attach higher, keeping the nocks from being too high/nae unreachable.

Yep, Greg has the right of it. Back quivers work better with a little room between the nock and the lip of the quiver, because otherwise the arrow is difficult to draw. My own quiver dips down on the left side instead of the middle, but for a similar reason as Greg has described above.

Also, HOLY COW, THAT'S ONE HECKUVAN ARROW.

How many of our quivers are designed for target blunts and would not work with broadheads? (Understanding that the Mary Rose quivers were probably for bodkin arrows...)

... I'm assuming some straw or possibly wool roving at the bottom of an arrow sock will protect things well enough, yes?
I'm also considering piecing in a leather sacrificial bottom for the last 6" or so of the arrow sock. Has anyone had any issues with quivers or socks getting cut up? Do you sew blade covers for swallowtails and such?

Also, HOLY COW, THAT'S ONE HECKUVAN ARROW.

I know, right?

I'm still parsing all the stuff from the English Warbow Society: it may be more authentic to add more taper to smaller diameter towards the rear. Regardless, it still feels massive compared to the target arrows I've been using. I'm sure they'll drop like a stone from my bow, but there's no mistaking what they were meant for.

I figure I'll follow Greg's lead and have 9-12 arrows, of which about half a dozen will be these, and the remaining.. some mix of bodkin, blunt, and swallowtail.. plus perhaps one pitched firecage either on a shaft or in a pouch to swap out.

My arrow socks terminate in a leather pouch at the base which has a bottom edge cut contoured to the inside shape of my quiver, fwiw. Oilcloth and linen both don't stand a long-term change against even field points.